Emil a



(No Model.)

' E. A. SAUBER.

BOSOM PLAITING ATTACHMENT 'FOR SEWING MACHINES.

Patented Mar. 31, 1891..

I the above figure.

UNrTEn STATES PATENT @rrrcn.

FMIL A. SAUBER, OF PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA, ASSIGNOR TO HAGEDORN d: MERZ, OF SAME PLACE.

BOSOM-PLAITING ATTACHMENT FOR SEWING-MACHINES.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 449,385, dated March 31, 1891..

Application filed November 22,1890. Serial No. 372,302. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, EMIL A. SAUBER, a citizen of the United States of America, residing at Philadelphia, in the county of Philadelphia and State of Pennsylvania, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Bosom- Plaiting Attachments for Sewing-Machines,-

of which the following is a specification, reference being had therein to the accompanying drawings.

My invention has relation to sewing-ma chine attachments, is designed and adapted particularly for use in the manufacture of shirts, and has for its object the provision of novel, simple, and efficient means whereby the central plait of the bosom of a garment of the above-mentioned class may at a single operation be automatically formed and the formation of the double row of stitching therein adjacent to its edges be simultaneously accomplished.

Heretofore in the formation of a plait of the above character, preparatory to the stitching thereof and subsequently to the cutting of the bosom to the proper shape, six distinct operations have been necessary, viz: the formation of the entrant or bellows fold composing one side of the plait, the formation of a like fold for the other side of the plait, the formation of each fold involving two opposite bends of the fabric, and the stitching, separately, of each side of the plait for rendering permanent said folds.

My invention consists in the details of construction andin the combinations of parts, as hereinafter fully described and claimed, and as shown clearly in the accompanying drawings, wherein- Figure 1 is a plan view of my improvements in position on the clotl1plate and table of a sewing-machine. Fig. 2 is a side elevation of that portion of said improvement which'rests on the cloth-plate aforesaid,as in Fig. 3 is a similar view of the portion of my improvements which rests on the sewing-machine table, as in Fig. 1; and Fig. 4 is a perspective view of a section of a shirtbosom, showing the central plait as formed by theimprovements aforementioned.

Having reference to the employment of the spreader A, which is sustained on the upward extension or block a of the'arm A, which latter is hinged on the pin 1) in the ears or lugs b of the base-plate B, said base-plate being secured to the cloth-plate O of the machine, preferably by the screw b in such position as to bring said spreader in the line of feed and directly in front of the needles (2 0', secured in the holder 0 on the end of the needle-bar 0 such needle-bar, as usual, reciprocating within the box 0 therefor on the arm of said machine. The arm A is maintained in its normal position, which is as shown in full lines in Figs. 1 and 2,by the spiral spring 19 encircling said pin and having its ends secured to said arm and base-plate, respectively, the latter and the arm constituting in effect the leaves of a spring-hinge.

D is a spring-metal arm pivotally sustained at its inner end on the block cl through the medium of the screw (Z and the washer (Z and adapted to swing radially thereon, the outer free end of said arm being enlarged laterally, forming the head (F, the edge of which tapers inwardly toward the line of feed, and the height of the block (Z is such that when thearm D is swung into the position shown by the dotted lines in Fig. l, where itis limited in its movement by the pin (1* on said block and where its head rests beneath the wed ge'shaped spreaderA, the tendency of the head (1 will be upward toward the under side of said spreader.

E is another spring-metal arm, hook-like in side elevation, having its free end formed into a head 0, like the head (Z permanently occupying a like position on the other side of the line of feed in the same horizontal plane, having the same upward tendency due to the spring of the arm, but having its edge extending in the opposite direction, so that the intermediate space diminishes in width inwardly, while the width of the spreader A, under which the heads rest, diminishes outwardly. The other end 6 of this arm is widened at one side, as at e so as to insure a broad bearing 011 the under side of the bedplate 0, to which it is rigidly secured by the screws The spreader A and the arms ,D and E constitute the plait-former.

F F are oppositely-disposed guides having therein longitudinal slots ff and adj ustably soon red on the base-plate G, which is secured by the screws g to the sewing-machine table H through the medium of the set-screws g 9 the free ends f f of such guides being bent on lines parallel with the edges of the heads 6 and d and extending, hook-like, parallel with the main portions thereof, the distance apart of the guides being governed by the width of the bosom to be plaited, their proper positions being at equal distances from the center of the line of feed.

The operation is as follows: The arm D is swung into the position shown by the full lines in Fig. 1 and the arm A swung into the position shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 2. Then the bosom-blank is placed with one of its edges within the guide F and under the upper free end of the arm E and then given a turn around the head 6, causingit to lie on said end, forming the entrant-fold 7c in the bosom I. The arm A is swung back into the position shown in full lines in Figs. 1 and 2. The bosom is then given another turn oppositely to thelast turn and laid on the spreader A, forming the plait K, and then allowed to drop below the edge of said spreader, where upon the arm D is swung back into the position shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 1 and the full lines in Fig. 2,forcing the aforesaid dropped portion of the bosom beneath the edge of the spreader A, forming the entrant-fold 7c, in which position the remainder of the bosom will rest beneath the arm D and will be placed in the guide F also. The plait K will be exactly in the middle, as shown by the broken line at in Fig. 2, because of allowance having been made for the formation of said plait, and the guides F F adjusted accordingly. Finally, the bosom, in the condition above described, is placed under the presser-foot L, which is widened so as to accommodate it to the width of theline of feed and to the width of the feed M, which latter is also widened correspondingly to the distance apart of the needles cc, and the machine started, the inclines of the guides F F facilitatingthe feeding of the bosom-blank, under draft of the feed mechanism, to the folding devices, and the flaring of the heads (i and 6, under such draft, facilitating the folding operation, the innermost edges or ends of said heads being just within the axial lines of the needles, insuring the passage of the latter through the inner edges of the entrant-folds and the simultaneous stitching on the lines 0 c of both to the plait K, while the block a prevents such edges from getting away from this position by being interposed between them, and the spreader a spreads the plait t0 the desired width, the above operations continuing without further assistance until the bosom is platted and stitched.

What I claim as my inventionis as follows:

1. In a plaiting attachment forsewing-machines, the combination, with the cloth-plate, of a stationary and a horizontally-swinging arm, with their free ends normally opposite in the same horizontal plane and in the line of feed, the facing edges of said ends converging toward the needles, and a spreader projecting over said edges, substantially as and for the purpose specified.

2. In a plaiting attachment for sewing-machines, the combination, with the cloth-plate, of a stationary and a horizontally-swinging arm, with their free ends normally opposite in the same horizontal plane and in the line of feed, said free ends being widened laterally and their facing edges converging toward the needles, and a T-shaped spreader with its shank interposed between and its head projecting over said edges, substantially as and for the purpose specified.

3. In a plaiting attachment for sewing-machines, the combination, with the cloth-plate, of a stationary and a l1orizontally-swinging arm, with their free ends normally opposite in the same horizontal plane and in the line of feed, said free ends being widened laterally and their facing edges converging toward the needles, and a vertically-swingingspring-controlled arm,with a T-shaped spreader thereon, with its shank interposed between and its head projecting over said edges, substantially as and for the purpose specified.

4. In a plaiting attachment for sewing-ma chines, the combination, with the cloth-plate, of a stationary and a horizontally-swinging arm, with their free ends normally opposite in the same horizontal plane and in the line of feed, the facing edgesof said ends converging toward the needles, a spreader projecting over said edges, and a guide for the fabric in front of said arms and spreader, substantially as and for the purpose specified.

In testimony whereof I affix m y signature in presence of two witnesses.

EMIL A. SAUBER. Witnesses:

R. DALE SPARHAWK, WM; H. POWELL. 

